Lately I’ve noticed people talking about how to make a face mask that would not only shield but also cover the beard. I like challenges and because I’m not a professional seamstress it was definitelly a challenge to figure out how to make such a mask. The pattern I drew worked well for me so I am sharing it together with the tutorial. This mask is also adjustable in two places.
I wanted to make a one-size mask that would be more or ess universal. The face part of the mask is an extended muzzle mask and the pocket I made is quite long but you can make the pattern shorter (or longer) as indicated in the pattern. I will also show you how to regulate the length.
Please take this tutorial and pattern as what it is – a tutorial made by a non-professional but with great joy of figuring the whole thing out. Excuse the imperfections that I’m sure are there. However, the pattern worked really well for me.
- Pattern to download (3 pieces)
- 100% cotton fabric
- 100% cotton thread
- Flat 1 cm elastic – about 1 meter
- Flat 5 mm elastic – about 38 cm
- safety pin
If you want to make the pocket of the mask adjustable, you’ll also need:
- 4 small buttons
- 2 pieces of 5mm flat elastic about 3 cm long
- hand sewing needle
Face Mask for a Beard – How to make it
Cut the face piece 4 times. The mask will have 2 layers and you’ll need 2 pieces for each layer. Don’t forget to add the 5mm seam allowance. The seam allowance is included in the other parts of the pattern so no need to add it there.
Cut 2 pocket pieces. If you make it longer/shorter, do it in the straight part, not in the curve.
Cut the pocket side twice. If you made the pocket longer/shorter, you’ll need to adjust the side. The straight edge of the side has to match the circumference of the pocket (without the upper edge) in length.
The cut 1 stripe of fabric that’s 2 cm wide and of the same length like the curved edge of the picket side, here it is 58 cm.
Fold the fabric stripe lengthwise in half and iron. Place one piece of the pocket side curved edge up. Place the stripe on the curved edge (raw edge of the stripe aligned with the curved edge – upper photo). To make the straight stripe align with the curvy edge, you’ll need to make tiny cuts about every inch on the raw edge of the stripe.
Place the other pocket side piece on top of the previous two pieces, also curved side up (lower photo). Pin everything starting in the center. Stitch the pinned edge.
Turn it the right side out and now you have the side of the pocket with a tunnel for the elastic.
Use the safety pin to pull the elastic through the tunnel. Stitch the elastic to both ends of the tunnel, you want the elastic to hold there.
Because the elastic is shorter than the tunnel, the tunnel will crease.
Place one of the pocket pieces straight edge up. Align the raw edge of the pocket side with the curve of the pocket piece and pin starting from the center going up to the sides (left photo). Place the other pocket piece on top and re-pin. Stitch the edges together, leave the top open.
Turn the pocket right side out through the opening.
This is what the pocket looks like from the side.
To make the face part place 2 pieces right sides together and stitch the curve. Open the mask. If you now place the bottom edge of the mask to the upper edge of the pocket you’ll see the mask is wider, that’s ok.
Cut 2 stripes that aer 3 cm wide and 9 cm long. Fold the short edges 0,5 cm in and stitch. I forgot to do the folding so in the next steps you’ll see the raw edges of the tunnel.
Fold the stripes lengthwise in half and iron. These are the tunnels for the elastic.
Place the pocket curve down and flat edge up. Place one of the face parts wrong side up on the pocket, the straight edges of both pieces have to align. Pin both together. Turn the whole thing on the other side and pin the other face part to in in the same way.
Here’s where I accidentally deleted some pictures and you’ll have to bear with me through this step where I decided to use my drawing. The blue shows the two face pieces, between them is the pocket in green. Now pay attention to the red tunnels. Align the raw edge of the tunnel with the short edge of JUST ONE face part. For now the tunnels are directed inside.
This is a tunnel stitched to the short edge.
Now you need to close both face pieces wrong side out and stuff everything inside. Stitch along the edges leaving one short edge open.
Turn the whole mask right side out through the open edge. Fold the edge in nicely and stitch it.
Stitch the upper edge of the face.
The inside of the mask should look like this. If you’re happy with the length of your pocket, you can skip the following steps and go to the step where I show you how to pull the elastick through.
I decided to make the face mask for beard adjustabe in 2 places. The first one being the tunnel at the edge of the pocket – here’s where you can make the pocket tighter. I made a 2cm cut about 5 cm from the upper edge of the pocket tunnel. I folded the edges and stitch them to prevent fringing. You can do this with your sewing machine before you assemble the pocket but I preffered to do it in hand.
Sew a small button just over the opening. Pull out the elastic and make a small vertical cut. This cut will be the hole for the button. Make the same on both sides and if you put the elastic over the buttons the pocket will tighten regularly.
To adjust the length of the pocket I did the following: I sew on a small button 5 cm under the top of the pocket side and a loop made from the elastic 12 cm under the top. Be careful not to stitch through both layers of the side. It would be no problem but it will look much nicer if you stitch through just one layer. Again, you can do this before assembling but I was afraid that I might make a mistake during the sewing and the distance would be different on each side.
Of course, sew on the button and loop on each side.
If you put the elastic over the button, the pocket will shorten. You can use a different distance of the button and the elastic.
Use the safety pin to pull the elastic through the tunnels as shown in the pictures.
Stitch the ends of the elastic together or make a knot.
This would be the mask without the buttons etc. for adjustment.
This is the mask adjusted with the buttons and loops on the sides.
Pocket tightened with the elastic in the tunnel.
Side view of the face mask for a beard.
That’s all, hope you liked the tutorial!
BLESS YOU. And many thanks for he face mask(s) patterns plus directions. i’m going to pass them out at my Gleaning Seniors branch. God makes all things possible, and you’re a big help
Thank you so much for your praise! Just be sure when printing the patterns the 1 cm/1 inch square has the correct size so the patterns have the correct size as well. Good luck and stay healthy!